It was clear from Emilio de la Morena’s SS17 show at London Fashion Week that short, floaty pieces are out – long, sheer clothes are in. That, and you can never go wrong with feathers. The punk music which accompanied the models’ walks down the runway added to the creative flair, with Morena’s designs being anything but clean-cut, although still managing to look put together.
His show gestured to the frequent impracticality of fashion, but also to the fabulousness of it all. The designs were vibrant and fresh; the array of colours on offer stood out individually, holding their own without merging into one another. Furthermore, the designs refused to be saturated – even if the material had been frayed and hung in strips it remained bold and never went unnoticed or looked weird or washed out. Emilio de la Morena doesn’t know the meaning of the term ‘washed out’… unless it serves to make a statement, I guess.
Streams of textured dresses draped over the models and held them in all of the right places, and a mismatch of colours embodied the skirts and suit jackets, with the shoulders of the latter often heavily padded and flared. Morena seemed to take a liking to letting sheer material stream out from underneath several designs, finishing the look with something different and unique. I thought of this as creating a twist on ordinary outfits by offering an alternative, layered design which matched perfectly with the choice of music: harmonious but edgy.
Interestingly for a spring/summer collection, there was no shortage of autumnal colours on display, although this didn’t cause any shying away from the bright pinks and startling blues, which were often accompanied with a crisp white base (which itself was far from plain, due to an undergarment of sheer black and some decomposition effect on the material.)
My favourite piece from the collection was a deep red dress with a low-cut back, covered with a delicate, sheer blue fabric that floated down to the knee. As layering and frills are currently all the rage, it was no surprise to see Emilio de la Morena adding frilled, cropped sleeves which only came into play around the upper arm area, thus keeping the fuss away from the body of the dress. It was effortlessly stylish and sultry.
Images via Scarlet Hannington